22 February, 2011

A bit about Aveda

Last night, I went to an interview to learn a little about an Aveda concept salon in town called Jon Alan. I knew there was this one at Nippers Corner by my house, but I actually didn't know there were 3 in total! The first opened up in Bellevue in 1988, so they've been around for a while and Jon, the owner, seems to have a recipe for success. She says, "Success is a planned event," and in the interview we speak a bit about what it takes to be successful. She also gives us a packet including an article on how to find the best job for you in cosmetology. She is not shy about saying that her salon may not be the right fit for you, and they only want people who are totally committed to their vision. Sounds like our culture at Paul Mitchell so far... Her husband introduces her as the "American Tabitha", which intrigues me, as I have an understanding of the way I work that leads me to believe I need strict guidance. In the packet are also pages about Aveda's concepts, the salons concepts, and a few general words of advice to the new stylist. My favorite of which is this quote at the bottom of a page about Aveda's shaping beliefs;
Make a COMMITMENT to yourself backed by INTEGRITY, guided by MENTORS, to develop a PASSION for your art, striving for EXCELLENCE, which will lead to SUCCESS, followed by FULFILLMENT in your own expression of CREATIVITY. -Geno Stampora


So now I am a bit intrigued with Aveda and it's structures. This blog-post is born of an exploration into Aveda's history and culture and a need to download and process that information for myself, so apologies if it is not as interesting as some... :)


The beginnings of Aveda are quite interesting, (although this information was gleaned from Wikipedia and the link to the official information no longer works... :/  ) founded by a man named Horst Rechelbacher in 1978. (poor guy! lol) Apparently, on a trip to India in 1970, he discovered the healing properties of Ayurveda (the Hindu science of longevity)  and suddenly his vision for his company (thus the name Aveda) was born. 

The translation of Ayurveda is "the complete knowledge for long life". It is a form of holistic or alternative medicine. Ayurveda deals elaborately with measures of healthful living during the entire span of life and its various phases. It's rather fascinating, and if I was to continue to talk about it, this blog post would be miles long! So instead, here's a link where you can learn all about Ayurveda and it's principles!


Today, Aveda is a part of Estée Lauder Companies Inc., based in New York. Rechelbacher sold Aveda to Estée Lauder in 1997 for $300 million, although Aveda continues to be run as a separate entity. This is one thing that bothers me... as Paul Mitchell is still owned by hairdressers, and will be for at least the next 300+ years. (Jon Paul DiJoria and Angus Mitchell just put the company into a trust.) I am worried about joining a company that is owned by a makeup manufacturer. According to the company's website, "Aveda" is Sanskrit, but in fact means "no knowledge". Whoops. Also, HOLY CRAP! Estee Lauder is owned by the president of the Jewish National Fund, which is heavily involved in developing illegal Jewish settlements on Palestinian lands. Double whoops... I'll let you do your own research there, but there's a lot of scary info to be found on that front. for "all knowledge"


This is all information gleaned from the internet, which is a semi-reliable source if at all. Also, it doesn't mean there aren't good things about this company... Aveda's mission is "to care for the world we live in, from the products we make to the ways in which we give back to society. At Aveda, we strive to set an example for environmental ledarship and responsibility, not just in the world of beauty, but around the world." They are heavily involved in philanthropy, thay raised more than $2.1 million in 30 days for Earth Month in support of clean water rights. They were the first company to manufacture with 100% wind power. The first to incorporate 80-95% post-consumer recycled (PCR) high density polyethylene (HDPE) in all of its retail shampoo bottles (made from recycled milk bottles), reducing use of virgin HDPE by 300 tons annually. 89% of the total tonnage of its essential oils are certified organic. The Company purchases in excess of 30 tons of certified organic essential oils in one year. And Aveda formed a partnership with a women's cooperative network in Morocco to sustainably source certified organic argan oil and help the women to provide for their families and communities

All of this in consideration, the only real beef I have with Aveda is that they are owned by Estee Lauder. Not because of the president's involvement in the Palesitne/Jewish issues, but because it is not a hairdressing company. However, all the information I have found states that they continue to run separately, and  are doing well for hairdressers worldwide. Estee Lauder also owns two of my other favorite lines, Clinique (makeup) and Bumble and Bumble (another high-end hair care line). The have a great culture and create brilliant stylists. They are more involved in philanthropy than most, and I would work for them if given the opportunity, but I have to say, my heart belongs to Paul Mitchell :)

13 February, 2011

Trend Snip: Spring Fashion

The weather will be warm soon, and it's time to gear up for spring!  I checked out coverage of New York Fashion Week Spring 2011 to see what's going to be hot for the coming season;


A-symmetrical is really hot this season with one shouldered and one sleeved garments like these, loose side buns, or severe side parts.  This trend opens up some options for interesting looks, but there's a finesse to it. It's important to find a balance in the whole look when you are adding an asymmetrical element. Try a middle part or centered top knot to balance out a one-sided design, and save the side pony tail to pair with something more balanced.
Thanks to celebs like Rhianna, asymmetrical bobs are the sexiest hair trend these days. When considering this type of hairstyle, make sure the difference isn't subtle. If you're not blatantly going for it, it may look like an accident!

Asymmetry done right is really just a triangle in the design, which tricks the eye into viewing the a bigger picture. Meaning, the whole of the figure is perceived, rather than individual parts. (To learn more about the Gestalt Principals of Design click here)  If you must layer asymmetry, remember that the principles behind this design are actually angles, so layer them to oppose. Here's an example of opposing triangles that work:





We're seeing more and more 2nd-day hair on the runway. The current trends are moving toward the modern woman, who doesn't always have time to be perfectly coiffed every day. Loose texture is the ticket to rocking the day-after look, weather you actually rocked kicking curls the day before, or you fake it with some loose flat iron curls. It's important not to overdo it, this year Shirley Temple curls will leave you looking like you tried too hard. Undone elegance is your goal for day or night with this look .



 Masculine looks are in with the grunge trend this season. Deep side parts, and slick roots create and androgynous edge to the every day. Try this on that 3rd day after you've rocked your disheveled look :)

The theme this year seems to be influenced by the modern woman who has to find time for work and play in a hectic world. Creative and eclectic, it's  little grunge and a little glam with a matte finish.

 I'll leave you with a not-exactly-wearable but a fun runway trick this season - painted hair! One onders how that might translate into the world of hair color!

29 January, 2011

Tricks of the trade: PRODUCTS!

We have all (including me, SO many times) had this happen; You go into a hair salon, come out looking so hot. You watch your stylist, ask questions, take pictures, anything you can think of to try to remember exactly how you looked so you can try to recreate that look. You wait a day or two to wash your hair, but eventually the time comes when you step out of the shower and it's gone. Then you try, but you can never make your hair look like they did. Why? You're doing everything they were... blow-drying a certain way, flat-ironing this way and that... but why isn't it the same?

The answer is an easy one, PRODUCTS! Your hairdresser has extensive knowledge about what products they have at their disposal, and are making educated decisions based on your hair type as to what to use to build your hairstyle. We do not learn magic hair tricks in hair school that make your hair do something different than it does at home. And a good hairdresser will want you to be able to recreate the look you left the salon with every day!

A note on professional products: Sometimes the downfall in re-creating a good hairstyle is that you're using the same type of products but you bought them at your local drugstore. I was guilty of this before I went to hair school, and I learned that drugstore products are in no way comparable to a professional product. Imagine your doctor gives you a prescription for cold medicine, and you say "no, thanks, i'll just take Day Quill". In the same way over-the-counter medicines can not be the same as prescription ones, a drugstore product is not the same as a professional one. Professional products may cost more up front, but they are stronger and more concentrated than what you'll find in the store, so they ultimately are cost-effective. Even if they have the same ingredients, you get what you pay for, they are watered down versions, and many times, will coat your hair in wax or plastics to make it look shiner/healthier when actually it is permanently damaging with long term use. In the long run, it will cost you more because you'll have to use more of the off-brand to get the same result than you would of the real thing. Do not make the mistake of thinking the "comparable" brand will save you money... you will ultimately be disappointed.


There are 3 main categories a stylist will use; a foundation, a building, and a finishing product. These are all necessary to create a finished design.

Foundation: A foundation product is a product usually built for your hair type. This can be a leave in conditioner, a silicone based product, etc. Usually, these products have conditioning and/or protecting agents and depending on the result desired, make your hair skinnier or fatter. My favorite foundation product is Paul Mitchell's Quick Slip.  It has a little bit of style memory, a UV protectant (NESSESSARY for colored hair), and speeds up my drying time by like 50%!

Building: A building product is one that will allow your hair to style the way you want it to. With this product it is important to consider the final outcome of your hair style. If you want to wear your hair straight, curled, loose, controlled, up, or down- all these factor into your choice of building product. This is where your gels, foams, mouses, pomades, etc come in. My favorite building product is Paul Mitchell's Extra Body Sculpting Foam, or any other volumizing mouse. You don't have to stick to one building product, but one or two is usually enough. I add a little heat protection product as well because I don't go anywhere without at least blowdrying my hair! A baisic trick to remember is if your going for sleek style, a balm or gel with scilicone works best, and if you like volume or curl, a volumizing mouse or spray.

Finishing: A finishing product is as simple as your favorite hairspray. It is the product that holds your hair in it's shape and, if chosen wisely, can add factors like UVA/UVB protection and humidity control. In this category live some waxes, powders, pomades, and spiking glues as well. Here's the secret about finishing: it's what makes a style modern or outdated. Take the bump-it look for example... a hard, sleek finish on a bump looks like those pictures of your grandma from the sixties. As much as "retro is in", it isn't flattering. But update it with a matte finish and tada! your hair is ready for 2011! My favorite finishing product of all time is hands-down Paul Mitchell's Spray Wax. IT IS THE BEST!!! I use it on all my fashion shoots and almost every single client. Another favorite if you're one of those people who hate the feeling of product in their hair is Super Clean Light. It provides light, flexible hold without all the buildup.

Speaking of buildup, you may think that all of these products in your hair will create buildup, look heavy or bulky, or just be unpleasant to the touch. When used incorrectly (i.e. too much or the wrong products) it can. However, these are the products your hairdresser uses to create lasting styles, and when used correctly, can make your hair look perfect and polished every time. Ask your hairdresser (or call me!) about how to use products correctly and ask them what they recommend for your hair. After all, they spend all day every day doing hair and they want you to look good!

Please watch this investigative story on Diversion and why you should NEVER buy "professional products" at the grocery store. 



Professional products and technique are the key to good looking hair, and a good hairdresser has every reason to share both with you. And don't be afraid to ask them why they are making that recommendation!